Hold Me Closer Tiny Diner

Chock full of good eats, Charleston is a community that fancies a little nosh. And everyone has their favorites; even The New York Times, which apparently views Charleston as an outer borough given the frequency it covers our dining scene.

Let’s consider not the usual culinary suspects but rather those standouts still slightly under the radar. What unites this group is an artisanal approach to food, keeping it fresh, keeping it local and always keeping it tasty.

Many of these spots are relatively new and most are tiny. You can’t have intimacy issues with your dining. It’s part of the experience, getting to know the people preparing your food, not to mention your fellow foodies. This is social networking at its purest.

At these four top picks, every seat is at the chef’s table:

Black Bean Co. on Spring Street is a newcomer redefining vegetarian and “healthy” eating. Owner & Chef Ellis Grossman commits to providing unprocessed, delicious food going so far as to grow his own produce with Thackeray Farms and using only recyclable and biodegradable products.

He says without a trace of hyperbole that Black Bean’s vegan chocolate chip cookie “is gonna change the world.” That’s a tall order for rolled oats, flax and 65% cocoa. A standout side is the homemade Greek-style yogurt with vanilla bean and local honey, topped with rolled oats, dried cranberries and pistachios. Coming up: a second locale on James Island opening in late March with 50 tables, a drive thru, a kids’ menu and more hot selections.

Dell’z Deli brings the flavor in a big way. The food is made with love and you can taste it. On the corner of Cannon and King, you’re likely to overlook the entrance thinking it’s a head shop. Don’t. Open the door and owner Maudell “Dell” Grayson immediately makes you welcome – gives you wooden puzzles to play, books to read, a wall to sign your name and solves your existential dilemmas, all while Bob Marley serenades.

Her “Cannon Corner” wrap will likely change your life it’s that good. Dell’z devotee Tamiko Thornton comes almost every day for the bean and rice bowl and tell us, “I’ve had to calm down it’s so good!” Portions are generous and vegetarian / gluten-free options abound. Open late night, you are spared forevermore from drive-thru Taco Hell®.

Twenty Six Divine, located on upper, upper King, is the tiniest spot with one table. Think Provence with Tiffany blue accents and a patisserie counter tempting you to buy one of everything. Hubby and wife, Enon & Jennifer Parezo, boast extensive culinary training and passion that fuels their catering, café and wedding cake enterprises. Twenty Six Divine offers “of the moment” eats and sweets, seasonal menus, gift items and afternoon teas. Real men eat quiche when it’s crafted by a Cordon Bleu chef. A must try is the sweet potato salad side. It defies description, ‘cept to say it’s savory, sweet and altogether awesome.

If a meat and three is more your lunch style, look no further than the Tomato Shed Café located in the Stono Market on Johns Island. This is the storefront of Ambrose Farms and its Community Share Agriculture (CSA) program. Vegetables can’t get much fresher unless they’re still covered in dirt.

The Tomato Shed’s “side dish” menu changes daily and is focused on the vegetables in season and under harvest. We’re talking at least 20-30 veggie side dishes to choose from including Tomato Pie, Squash Casserole, Tomato Shed shrimp, crab cakes, pimiento cheese, and macaroni n’ cheese. Take and bake meals, baked goods, fresh produce, preserves and pantry items are all at your fingertips.

Time for the little guy to get the glory.

Story by: Claire Gibbons
Photos by: Dee Dee Arthur